Guest Ribbons – From the Collection of Kelly Hinson #2

Here are a few more of Kelly’s ribbons.

This photo of a 2″ deep purple ribbon is a nice shot for showing the front and back of a single face satin ribbon. Notice how smooth the left is and the dull flatness of the right. The warp treads float on the front of the ribbon creating the smooth, shiny surface. This is a single face. A double face will have the warp threads float on the front and the back. If you’ve read the satin ribbon comparison page, you know that lower quality satins have threads that float a longer distance that can snag.

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

When I first looked at this ribbon, I thought it was a nice example of a floral taffeta ribbon with satin stripes. Then I noticed something going on with the close-up of the piecing Kelly took. Look at the satin stripes. This length was pieced so that the right side faced on way on one end and the other way on the other end. Confused? In the photo, on the top, the front of the satin stripes are on the top while on the bottom the back of the satin stripes are on top.

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

This plaid has question marks around it in my head. It is something about the texture. I have to ponder before I say more.

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

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Guest Ribbons – From the Collection of Kelly Hinson #1

This past summer, Kelly was incredibly lucky to find a beautiful assortment of ribbons in a suitcase. She was at a ‘junk’ sale in search of a tablecloth when she happened upon a suitcase which she bought unopened. Getting it home, she discovered it was full of ribbons, many lengths in pairs suggesting their use for millinery. These ribbons appear to be untouched for decades and in pretty decent shape.

Kelly shared full length photo with me. I’m sharing close-up photos so we can focus on the qualities of each. That said, there are a few that I don’t know what they are exactly.

These first three ribbons are taffeta. The deep blue taffeta appears as if the selvage edge may have a tiny satin weave.

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

Here we have a variation we see in a taffeta weave. We often use the word ombre. For ribbons, the techniques were the watered or clouded effect. These two techniques are different ways of developing the color of ribbon.

Clouding –  A coloring technique used to vary the color in a ribbon. This coloring technique takes place at the thread dying stage. “The silk, already warped, is tied up and wound closely round with packthread at regular intervals of more or less than an inch, so that the intermediate spaces only are penetrated by the dye.”

Watered  or Watering  – A coloring technique where a pair of woven ribbons is passed between two rollers. One of the rollers is heated creating irregular pressure as the ribbons are pressed against each other. This produces a wavy appearance in the coloring. The ribbon can also be wet when passed through the rollers. “The air in trying to effect its escape, drives before it the moisture, and hence causes the appearance of the curiously tortuous lines, resembling waves. (Cole, George S.. A Complete Dictionary of Dry Goods and History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool and other Fibrous Substances. Chicago: W. B. Conney,1892)

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

This is another taffeta ribbon, a shot taffeta, with velvet stripes along each edge. Mixing weaves was not unusual in 19th century ribbons. We often see satin stripes in taffeta ribbons.

Shot  – A ribbon with variation in colouring where the warp and weft are different colors.

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

Occasionally, I hear people ask about sheer ribbons. Yes, they did have sheer ribbons in the 19th century. Kelly has two examples that demonstrate how these ribbons were sheer but still had a firm body.

Gauze – Transparent ribbons made with a fine hard-twisted silk thread called marabout woven in a plain weave. Finer gauzes have over 80 threads per inch. “The plain gauze ribbons made at Coventry called China gauzes are chiefly those used for mourning – white, black and lavender, with satin or ground stripes.” (see http://www.met.org # C.I.38.23.167)

Floret Gauzes and Taffeties – Light ribbons made with organzine warp and marabout weft. In other words, the warp of a sarsenet ribbon and the weft of a gauze ribbon.

White sheer with looser weave unknown cropped

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

White organza sheer cropped

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

Kelly has s nice example of a cream damask with a pretty rose design. Notice how the roses are spaced.

Damask –  Ribbons with woven designs. These can be geometrical or floral frequently using combinations of leaves, sprigs and flowers. “In superior French ribbons groups and wreathes of flowers are executed with the richness and variety of hand-embroidery. The French are continually introducing novelties in colouring and in texture. In one of recent appearance the ribbon is laid over with a slight covering like crape, by means of a warp of hard-silk woven in loosely over the other; in another ribbon is made by stamping to assume the appearance of lace.”

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

Kelly had some mystery ribbons. First is this woven design that really reads newer to me. But, if it is newer, why was it in this set?

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

The next mysterious ribbon that has peaked my curiosity is this green ribbon – It may have been put through a crimper. But, if it was a crimper, wouldn’t that satin selvage be crimped too???

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

From the Collection of Kelly Hinson

An Assortment of Ribbons

Ribbons from the Greene Collection at the Genesee Country Village

Ribbons from the Greene Collection at the Genesee Country Village

Among the extensive Susan Greene Collection at the Genesee Country Village, we can find many millinery ribbons.This set of ribbons samples what can be found. Left to right, we have a floral center on white ground with pink savages, a taffeta stripe, an off white ribbon with greens and red woven stripes (I need to go back to see whether this is a satin or taffeta weave), a fabulous green and white ribbon showing plaid and moire sections separated by Jacquard woven stripes which are raised, a striped taffeta ribbon with satin stripes running across the ribbon.

Pink Stripe – Woven

This pink stripe is likely early Edwardian. The pink is characteristic of that early part of the 20th century. What I like about this ribbon is that is shows a ribbing running the length of the ribbon rather than across like most gros grains. The raised sections on this ribbon are created with a thicker warp thread. The best I can tell from the frayed edge is that there are three different thicknesses to the warp in this ribbon, the pink being the thinnest.

ribbon 1

Striped Moire in Purple

This striped Moiré ribbon is 3 ½ inches wide with a white ground and purple stripes running the length of the ribbon. This ribbon has been cut into several short sections with two longer sections. There is a light texture to the weave that borderlines gros grain. The ribbon has firm body.

ribbon 13

My Favorite – Embroidered

This is one of my favorite ribbons.

This embroidered ribbon is 4 7/8 inches wide. The ground is ground is black with blue vertical and horizontal striped and embroidered wreathes in yellow, reds, green and blues. The ribbon has a satin weave with short floats while the vertical blue stripe has longer floats. The horizontal stripe has a small check design.  These wreaths are very fine and add little bulk to the ribbon. I currently think this is likely a post Civil War ribbon.

ribbon 11 front

ribbon 11 back