Pink Stripe – Woven

This pink stripe is likely early Edwardian. The pink is characteristic of that early part of the 20th century. What I like about this ribbon is that is shows a ribbing running the length of the ribbon rather than across like most gros grains. The raised sections on this ribbon are created with a thicker warp thread. The best I can tell from the frayed edge is that there are three different thicknesses to the warp in this ribbon, the pink being the thinnest.

ribbon 1

Striped Moire in Purple

This striped Moiré ribbon is 3 ½ inches wide with a white ground and purple stripes running the length of the ribbon. This ribbon has been cut into several short sections with two longer sections. There is a light texture to the weave that borderlines gros grain. The ribbon has firm body.

ribbon 13

My Favorite – Embroidered

This is one of my favorite ribbons.

This embroidered ribbon is 4 7/8 inches wide. The ground is ground is black with blue vertical and horizontal striped and embroidered wreathes in yellow, reds, green and blues. The ribbon has a satin weave with short floats while the vertical blue stripe has longer floats. The horizontal stripe has a small check design.  These wreaths are very fine and add little bulk to the ribbon. I currently think this is likely a post Civil War ribbon.

ribbon 11 front

ribbon 11 back

Plaid and Water Damage

This is an interesting ribbon because, besides being a nice plaid, it gives us a chance to look at a few different things. The most obvious is the damage water staining can do to silk. There are several spots throughout this ribbon. Next is the plaid itself. Notice the plaid is on the grain. For bonnet ribbons, you do not want plaid cut on the bias. (The curtain/bavolet can be cut on the bias.) If you can look close at the ribbon (check in the lower right of you Explorer window for the zoom feature), take a look at the subtlties the change in weave can enhance the lines. Next look at the wider blue and wider brown areas. These have a varigated look created with gradiated tones of warp threads. In modern terms we call this ombre.

ribbon 12 front

ribbon 12 back

Mystery Ribbon

Mystery Ribbon

This is one of my mystery ribbons that I haven’t been able to track back yet. It is a brown jacquard weave. The ‘ground’ is striped. The blobs, for a lack of a better word, have a similarity to some fabrics. The combination makes a very interesting ribbon. The edge of the ribbon have the two browns from the ribbon plus a narrow red.

ribbon 2 front

ribbon 2 back

Bibliography for 2010 Genteel Arts Conference

 Aiken, Charlotte Rankin, Millinery. New York: Ronald, 1922.

Arthurs Home Magazine, 1860

Bailey, J. R. “The Struggle for Survival in the Coventry Ribbon and Watch Trades, 1865 – 1914.” Stanford:

Beckmann, Johann. A History of Inventions, Discoveries, and Origins. Trans. William Johnston. London: Bohn, 1846.

Boyd, Andrew. Boyd’s New York State Business Directory and Gazetteer. Syracuse: 1870.

Brockett, L. P. Md.. The Silk Industry in America; A History: Prepared for the Centennial Exposition. New York: Nesbitt, 1876.

Brockett, L. P., A History: Prepared for the Centennial Exposition. New York: Nesbitt, 1876.

Brockett, L. P., The Silk Industry in America – A History Prepared for the Centennial Exposition. New York: Nesbitt, 1876.

Census for the State of New York, for 1855. New York, 1856.

Chittick, James, Silk Manufacturing and Its Problems.  New York: Chittick, 1913.

Cole, George,  A Complete Dictionary of Dry Goods, and History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool and other Fibrous Substances. Chicago: Conkey, 1892.

Cowdin, Elliot C. Report to the Department of State on Silk and Silk Manufactures. Washington: 1868.

Cowdin, Elliot C. Reports of the United States Commissioners to the Paris Universal Exposition, 1867. Report on Silk and Silk Manufactures. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1868.

Cowdin, Elliot. Paris Universal Exposition, 1867. Reports of the United States Commissioners; Report on Silk and Silk Manufacture. Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1868.

Cowdin, Elliot. Report to the Department of State on Silk and Silk Manufactures. Washington, D.C.: 1868.

Davidson, Mary M. Silk: Its History and Manufacture. Junction City, Kansas: Wadleigh, 1885.

Davidson, Mary M.,  Silk: Its History and Manufacture, From the Earliest Ages to the Present Time. Junction City, Kansas: Wadleigh, 1885.

Fourth Annual Report of The Silk Association of America. New York: Nesbitt, 1876.

Freedley, Edwin Troxell. Philadelphia and its Manufactures. 1857.

Freedley, Edwin, T., Philadelphia and its Manufactures: A Hand-Book. Philadelphi: Young, 1858.

Garbutt Store Ledgers.1850-1870. Wheatland Reading Room.

Gazetteer and Biographical Record of Genesee County, N.Y., 1788-1890 By Frederick W. Beers, Published by J.W. Vose & Co., 1890

Gazetteer and Business Directory of Monroe County, N. Y. for 1869- 70.

Gazetteer and Business Directory of Ontario County, N.Y. Syracuse: Hamilton Child, 1867.

Godey’s Lady’s Book 1852

Harstmann, W. J. United States Patent for Narrow Ware – Patent #19,698; patented March 23, 1858.

Hickling, W., The History of Coventry. Coventry: Hickling, 1846.

Howell, Mrs. M. J. The Handbook of Millinery. London: Simpkin, 1847.

Howell, Mrs. M. J.. The Hand-book or Millinery. London: Simpkin, Marshall, & Co. 1847.

Kennedy, Joseph C.G. Manufacturing Census of the United States in 1860. Washington, D.C.: 1861.  

Kettell, Thomas P. Ed., The United States Economist, Dry Goods Reporter. New York: Kettell, 1854.

Knight, Charles, ed., Arts and Sciences. London: Bradbury, 1868.

Knight, Charles, Knowledge is Power: A View of the Productive Forces of Modern Society. Boston: Gould & Lincoln, 1856.

Leslie, Eliza. Miss Leslie’s Lady’s House-book. Philadelphia: Hart, 1850.

Lilly, A. T., The Silk Industry of The United States: From 1766 to 1874.  New York: Jenkins & Thomas, 1882.

New gazetteer and business directory, for Livingston county, N.Y., for 1868 G. Emmet Stetson Geneva, N.Y.: R.L. Adams & son, printers 1868.

 

Official Descriptive and Illustrated Catalogue of the Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of all Nations, 1851 Great Britain

Otis, Belle, The Diary of a Milliner. New York: Hurd & Houghton. 1867.

Patents for Inventions. Abridgements of Specifications Relating to Wearing Apparel, Division 1, Head Coverings, A.D. 1637-1866. London: Office of the Commissioners of Patents for Inventions, 1874.

Penny, Virginia. The Employments of Women: A Cyclopaedia of Woman’s Work.

Perry, Lorind PhD. Millinery as a Trade for Women. Women’s Educational and Industrial Union. Longmans, Green and Company: Boston, 1916.

“Ribbon Manufacture” Dictionary of Manufactures, Mining, Machinery and the Industrial Arts. George Dodd, ed. 1869.

Ripley, George and Charles A. Dana, eds. The New American Cyclopaedia: A Popular Dictionary of General Knowledge. Voumel XIV. New York: Appleton, 1862.

Stephens, Ann S. and Charles Peterson, eds., Ladies National Magazine. Philadelphia: Peterson, 1844.

The Anglo-American Magazine. Toronto: Maclear, 1854

The Draper and Clothier: A Book of General Information for All Traders in and Purchasers of Textile Fabrics, Vol II. LondonL: Houlston and Wright, 1861.

The Ladies’ Companion and Monthly Magazine.  London: Rogerson & Tuxford, 1855-1865.

The Penny Cyclopaedia of the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge. London: Knight, 1841.

The Silk Industry in America

“Silk and Silk Manufacturers” Manufacturer and Builder.  July 1, 1875.

“The Silk Manufacture of the United States” Manufacturer and Builder. March 1, 1870.

The Southern Business Directory. Charleston: Walker & James, 1854.

The United States Magazine. New York: Emerson, 1857. 

The Useful Arts Employed in the Production of Clothing. London: Parker, 1851.

The Useful Arts Employed in the Production of Clothing. London: Parker, 1851.

The What-Not; or Ladies’ Handy-Book. London: Kent, 1863.

Thompson, Eliza B., Silk. New York: Ronald, 1922.

Thompson, Eliza B.. Silk. Ronald Press Company: New York, 1922.

Thornwell, Emily. The Lady’s Guide to Perfect Gentility. New York: Derby & Jackson, 1856.

Townsend, Virginia and T.S. Arthur, eds., The Lady’s Home Magazine. Philadelpia: Arthur, 1858-1860.

Van Kleeck, Mary, A Seasonal Industry: A Study of the Millinery Trade in New York. New York: Russell Sage, MCMXVII 1917.

Van Kleeck, Mary. A Seasonal Industry: A Study of the Millinery Trade in New York. Russell Sage Foundation: New York, 1917.

Wheatland Store Ledgers. 1850-1870. Wheatland reading room.

Wyatt, M. Digby. The Industrial Arts of the Nineteenth Century: A Series of Illustrations of the Choicest Specimens Produced by Every Nation, at the Great Exhibition of Works of Industry, 1851. London: Day, 1853. (NYPL)

Wychoff, William, Eighth Annual Report of the Silk Association of America. New York: 1880.

Wychoff, William, Silk Goods Directory. New York: 1880.

Wychoff, William, Silk Goods Directory. New York: 1887.

Wychoff, William, Silk Manufacture in the United States.  New York: 1883.

Wychoff, William, The Silk Goods of America: A Brief Account of the Recent Improvements and Advances of Silk Manufacture in the United States. New York: 1880.

Wyckoff, William C. American Silk Manufacture. New York & Trenton, NJ: Murphy Pub. Co1883.

Wyckoff, William C. American Silk Manufacture. New York & Trenton, NJ: Murphy Pub. Co1887.

Wyckoff, William, American Silk Manufacture. New York: 1887.

 

Image Collections Consulted/Reviewed

 


Museum Collections

Big Springs Museum

Boston Museum of Fine Arts

Bowes Museum

Genesee Country Village & Museum

Kent State

Manchester Galleries

Metropolitan Museum of Art

San Francisco FAM

Tate Museum

Victoria and Albert Museum

 


Private Collections

Pam Robles

Elizabeth Topping

K Krewer

Jeannie Rucker  &Heather King

Vivian Murphy

Timely Tresses

Amy McKinney

Bath Antiques

Anna Allen – The Graceful Lady

Karen Augusta

Kay Gnagey

Terri Conley